REMOVE THE SHAFTS
You can now remove the rod end at the end
REMOVE THE O-RINGS
of the shock shaft. Use a pair of shock-shaft
pliers to hold the shaft without damaging it. If you don’t
have a pair of shock-shaft pliers, you can use standard
pliers with a rag between the shaft and jaws to keep
the surface from being damaged. Once the rod end
is removed, coat the threads of the shaft with O-ring
grease to keep them from cutting the dry O-rings in
the bottom of the shock when pushing the shafts out
of the shock body.
Remove the cap that keeps the O-rings in
LUBE THE O-RINGS
place at the bottom of the shock body. Once
that is out of the way, you can remove the seals
and plastic shock guides from the cavity. Play close
attention to the order that the parts come out and their
orientation. Placing the parts in order on your work
surface will help you remember where they go.
Now that you have the O-rings out, it’s time
INSTALL THE O-RINGS
to lube them up. Use a seal-specific grease,
Green Slime. ;ese lubes improve sealing capability,
reduce “stiction,” and help prevent the seals from
swelling. Lubricate the seals individually by working
the lubricant through the O-rings with your fingers to
make sure each is fully coated. Place the O-rings on a
clean surface (a plastic bag works) after the grease has
You can now install the O-rings and plastic
guides in the same order that you removed
them. Place a little O-ring grease in the cavity at the
bottom of the shock body to ensure that all the parts
slide into place and seat properly.
Shock-shaft pliers have
smooth aluminum jaws
that won’t mar steel shafts.
Never use bare steel-jaw
pliers to hold shock shafts.
Pro Tek R/C both
o ;er excellent shock-shaft pliers for less
Pay attention to the order and orientation of the seal parts.
Apply O-ring grease directly
to the O-ring, and use your
fingers to coat it completely.
is Pro Tek R/C’s
Premier Blue lube.
Wherever the seals
touch the shock bodies,