OK—your shocks are now built and ready to be installed. I’ve built all my shocks this way and have had
very good luck with their performance, no matter what type of vehicle that I’ve put them on. Barring crash
damage, a properly built set of shocks will only need occasional refreshing with clean oil and new seals to
maintain performance. What’s covered here will work for 99. 9 percent of the vehicles out there, and you’ll be
happy with the end result. ✇
Pro Tek R/C protekrc.com
BLEED THE SHOCK
Use a little O-ring grease on the
shock-cap seal to help it seat properly
on top of the shock body. Install the shock cap
until it’s about a turn or two from being tight, then
compress the shock piston. The excess oil will
come out when you compress the shock shaft;
once the shaft has bottomed out, I tighten the
shock cap. Wrap a paper towel around the shock to
collect the excess oil that comes out of the shock.
If you have an O-ring–sealed or bladder-sealed
shock, you may find that the shock shaft won’t
fully bottom out after the cap has been tightened.
If that happens, loosen the cap and compress the
shock shaft again to get a little more oil out. Once
the shaft bottoms out with the cap on tight, you’re
done with your build. If you have an emulsion-type
shock, you’ll want to install the bleed screw while
the shock shaft is compressed; once the screw is in
and tight, you’re good to go.
All you have to do now is mount ’em up. We
built a set of Pro-Line PowerStroke Scaler
shocks for this how-to, but the steps are the
same for most other brands and models.
Before you tighten the shock cap,
compress the shock shaft and
bleed the shock. A paper towel
will do a good job of soaking up
the excess oil.