9Remove the screws that secure the front and rear bumpers, bulkheads, and hingepin braces, then remove the parts. You’ll need to tug the gearboxes gently to pop them out of the
bulkheads.
11Reverse the steps to install the new bulkheads. Plug the
gearboxes into the bulkheads,
slip the hingepins in, and
everything will stitch back
together.
12Press the slipper clutch into the rear bulkhead, then slip the driveshaft through the front of the chassis to meet the slipper clutch.
13Reinstall the front and rear suspension modules. ;ey slip into place just like the 4x4 parts. When installing the front module, be sure the skid plate’s center tab tucks into the
chassis instead of over it. You may have to flex the front bulkhead
slightly to persuade the steering posts to pop into their recesses.
TIP Note the orientation of the hingepin braces (they’re the blue-anodized pieces) as you disassemble the front and rear suspension modules so you can reinstall them properly. Too late? Refer to the Rally exploded views at traxxas.com.
10Slip the hingepins out. ;e arms will flop out and you may
feel like you now have a puzzle
to solve. Don’t get spooked; the
arms will go right back into place when you slip the hingepins back in
during the next step.
14Last step. Hold the truck upside down and swing the front wheels to the right to reveal the bellcrank’s teering arm. Attach the steering linkage to it by passing the hex driver through the “window” in the skidplate. Done! Take your lowered Slash 4x4 for a spin and enjoy quicker transitional handling when snapping turns from right o left (and vice versa) and higher cornering speeds no matter which way you’re cranking the wheel.