My car has an adjustable servo-saver. When should I adjust it? How do I
know when it’s set correctly?
;e ideal setting depends on the servo. ;e higher your servo’s torque
rating, the more aggressive you can be with a tight servo-saver setting,
especially if it’s a metal-gear servo. If you’ve got a plastic-gear servo,
it’s wise to be more conservative with a “looser” setting. Many racers in
1/10 classes don’t run a servo-saver at all because they’ve got relatively
lightweight cars and robust metal-gear servos—and they don’t crash
;ese bellcranks have
no servo-saver at all.
Good for racing but
not good for bashing
around—unless you have
a servo-mounted saver.
;e tricky thing with adjustable bellcrank servers is actually adjusting them; they’re
usually buried. ;is Pro-Line PRO- 2’s adjuster is relatively easy to get to.
Tightening the adjuster
on the left bellcrank
(arrowed) will increase
tension on the spring,
so more force is
required to activate the
servo-saver. Use tighter
settings to suit stronger,
more durable servos.
a lot. For general bashing around, it’s smart to use a servo-saver. If
adjustable, the manual-recommended setting is the best starting point.
If you’ve got an RTR and there’s no suggested setting, start by tightening
the adjuster until you feel the full resistance of the spring. Hit the track or
trail; if your steering feels precise, you’re all set. If it feels like the servo-saver is allowing the wheels to deflect under normal cornering loads,
tighten it up a turn and retry until the servo-saver holds tight under the
hardest cornering loads. ✇
1/ 2H.indd 1 4/15/15 5:09PM