Body Reamer and
Every RC’er needs a set of curved body
scissors and a sharp ream, unless you
prefer to ruin your expensive Lexan
bodies. Trim your next shell correctly
and make perfect body-post holes with
these tools, and save a few bucks by
buying them as a set. By Du-Bro—not to
be confused with dudebros.
Set for Storage
I’m going to be away from home for work for a few months, and I can’t bring my
RC gear with me. Is there anything special I need to do to store my LiPo batteries
properly for that length of time?
For LiPo batteries, the generally accepted practice is to store packs charged to
about 50 percent of their capacity. If your charger has a “storage charge” function, this is easy; just charge the battery using the function (read the manual!)
and then go ahead and put the pack away in a cool and dry place. You can also
go by voltage; charge the pack up to 3.8V per cell before putting it away. So
for a 2S pack, that would be 7.6V, a 3S pack would be 11.4V, etc. If you have a
simple “plug and play” charger that doesn’t show voltage or capacity, just run
each pack until your car’s low-voltage detection says it’s time to recharge, then
charge the packs half as long as it usually takes to get a full charge.
For example, if it usually takes 40 minutes to charge a pack, just
charge it for 20 minutes before storage.
Don’t obsess over voltage or capacity if you don’t have
the ability to monitor them. ;e important thing is not to
store your LiPos fully discharged (which may lead to over-discharging if they sit too long) or fully charged (which can lead
to loss of capacity and voltage). As long as you’re not at those
extremes, you should have no worries about storing your packs.
If you charger has
a LiPo storage
program, use it.
I have a 2WD RTR stadium truck that I upgraded from the included stock motor to a 12-turn modified
motor. It has lots of power but gets hot very quickly. I’ve checked to make sure everything is turning
freely and all the parts spin just fine. Is the motor defective?
You made the right call in checking to make sure the drivetrain was spinning smoothly. With that pitfall
crossed o; the list, we can move on to the more likely culprit: your truck’s gearing. ;e pinion gear
that came with your truck was spec’d with the included stock motor in mind, which o;ered more
torque than rpm. Your upgrade motor relies on higher rpm to make power, and that calls for a smaller
(fewer teeth) pinion. If you’re still using the same gear that came with your stock motor, you’re likely
“overgeared” and that’s causing the motor to run hot. Install a pinion with two or three fewer teeth,
and you should see cooler temps and better performance. When you install the new pinion, set the
gear mesh so there’s a “tick” of free play between the pinion and spur gear. If the gears are pressed
tightly together, they’ll bind—and that can also cause overheating.
;e most common cause of an overheating motor is overgearing. If your motor
overheats, try using a smaller pinion gear to
reduce the strain on your motor. Robinson
o ;ers a ;ordable “ 6 Pack” pinion sets to help
you get your gearing dialed in.